My Trip to the Amalfi Coast
In 2019, during my time studying abroad in Spain my junior year of college, a group of my close friends and I decided to book an Airbnb on the high cliffs of Atrani overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. I embarked on my trip to Italy with the hopes of eating amazing food, seeing beautiful sights, and relaxing on the beach. I first flew to Naples to meet my friends. From Naples we then took a van through the city of Pompeii, as well as the Italian countryside on our way to the coast. I will never forget sitting in the crowded van with my eyes glued to the window as we sped through the windy Italian roads.
Our Airbnb in Atrani, which was big enough to sleep 20, sat atop what appeared to be a never-ending system of stairs and walkways. After meandering our way up the mountainside, we finally made it to our house. Never in my life had I ever stayed in a place with such breathtaking views. We spent the first day on the beach, enjoying the crystal clear ocean water. The clarity of the water along the Amalfi Coast could rival any mountain spring creek in Colorado.
We soon realized, however, that the only open restaurant in the small town of Atrani was a rundown pizza and sandwich shop. And no, I am not talking about the pizza one might imagine finding in Italy. Immediately, I became horrified that I may not get to enjoy a true Italian feast during my visit. For anyone who has never been to the Amalfi coast, the landscape is rugged, and it is nearly impossible to move between towns without a motorized vehicle. That night, I ate my soggy pizza, praying that it would not be the only thing I ate for the next two days.
When I woke up the next day, I made it my mission to find a true authentic Italian restaurant that would be possible to walk to. This is easier said than done with minimal cell reception and no knowledge of the Italian language. While my friends spent the early afternoon enjoying drinks on the beach, I was asking around hoping to find someone who spoke enough English to tell me where to get a meal. I was fortunate enough to meet a local man who looked to be about my age who directed me to a tunnel which connects Atrani to the neighboring town, a very good resource to know about. From there he gave me directions to a very old restaurant whose name translates to Grandma Amelia’s. I knew in that moment that I had found what I was looking for.
This wonderful little restaurant by the sea was able to seat all 21 of us (at various tables) along the sea wall. When we arrived at the restaurant, my nose filled with the most incredible smell of fresh herbs and slow cooked meat. As I sat there drinking wine and enjoying the most incredible Bolognese ever crafted, I felt all my hopes and dreams for my Italian vacation coming true. We sat for hours eating, drinking, and doing our best to converse with the locals.
My state of bliss continued into the next day as we had rented two mini-yachts with crew to take us on a tour of the Amalfi Coast. Our crew showed us some amazing scenery and even took us to a place where we could cliff jump. For lunch we docked in the large town of Positano. There we were treated to another fantastic meal of fresh seafood and pasta. As I sat riding on the bow of the boat cruising through the emerald blue waters, I felt incredibly fortunate for the experiences I was having.
The next day as I packed my bags and boarded the van to take us back to Naples, I could not help but feel a bit sad. I loved my time interacting with locals, and Grandma Amelia’s homemade Bolognese is something I will surely never forget.
