Disclaimer: This feature is based on a trip before the Covid-19 Pandemic.
European sailors observed the sport of surfing for the first time in 1769, but historians believe the art of wave-catching dates back to ancient Polynesia. Duke Kahanamoku, a legendary surfer, introduced the sport to the world during the twentieth century and now surfers can be spotted catching waves all over the world. Somehow or another, the sport traveled up to Canada and the hamlet of Tofino became the country’s only surf town. Today, Tofino is a hotspot for North American surfers with a climate that doesn’t always feel that way.
I learned about Tofino while living in British Colombia and I knew I had to check the place out before leaving Canada. I didn’t know how to surf at the time, truth be told I still don’t, but that didn’t stop me from planning a very impulsive trip. Friends joined in, I called in sick, and before we knew it we left the mountains and headed for the beaches.
There is something uniquely fun about traveling long distances without a car. It forces you to engage with the world around you and rely on your problem-solving skills to acquire transportation. With this at heart, my travel companion, Daisy, and I used a smartphone to download a ride-share application to which we hired a ride to Horseshoe Bay. Ok, we kind of wimped out on that one. Coming off our culturally rich car ride, we purchased two tickets for the ferry bound for Vancouver Island. To Daisy’s dismay, I decided to use the remaining ten minutes before the ferry departed to grab a coffee from Tim Hortons across the street. In my opinion, traveling in Canada is not done properly without a visit to the country’s famous coffee chain. I don’t think Daisy shared this sentiment as I quite literally was the last person to get on the boat.
The ferry, which runs daily, is enormous. Three levels of passenger decks sit overhead a massive hanger where cars and trucks await to drive again on solid land. The trip takes about an hour and we spent the entirety of it on the top deck, looking for whales. Whales are spotted often by Vancouverites and an hour-long journey on the Pacific Ocean seemed to be our best bet to catch a glimpse of these sea mammals. Sadly, no whales felt like breaching that day.
At around 4 pm, we docked at the small port city of Nanaimo and made our way to the hostel. Nanaimo is a hard-working city that has its fair share of quirks and family-owned shops. We spent our evening at the waterfront, continuing our search for whales.
The next morning, we planned to make our way to Tofino. With our backpacks on, we walked straight to the nearest rental car service and forked over some cash. There is something uniquely fun about traveling long distances with a car. You have the freedom to go anywhere and do anything that you please. On this particular three-hour drive from Nanaimo to Tofino, we did just that.
We found ourselves stopping every thirty minutes or so to experience the beauty that Vancouver Island has to offer. Waterfalls and streams run alongside the highway, beckoning us to pull over and explore. Massive Douglas Fir trees surround the road, as Vancouver Island is part of the Pacific Coast Forest, the densest forest in the world. We had to make a stop at The Cathedral Grove, a provincial park with trees measuring as tall as 240 feet.
It took us more than three hours to get to Tofino, but the drive had turned out to be the best part of the adventure thus far. We stopped in the nearby town of Ucluelet and reunited with some old friends who decided to move there for the summer. Ucluelet is a gorgeous town situated right on the shoreline. The housing is sparse, so our friends would spend the entire summer living out of their tent. We could understand why, like many others, our friends sacrificed their comfort to live in such a breathtaking place.
Following in their footsteps, we set up camp right on a beach in Tofino. I highly recommend staying at Bella Pacifica campground for an amazing experience. A trip to the local brewery quickly put us to bed and we dozed off to the thought of riding big waves.
On par with being in a rainforest, the clouds above Tofino sent us some freezing rain in the morning. I began to question how we were going to stay warm in the water. The surf pros had a solution that came in the form of 5mm thick wetsuits with hoods and booties. Covered head to toe in thick neoprene, Daisy and I carried our surfboards down to Cox Bay. Before heading into the waves, Daisy tried to give me a few pointers on the beach. I practiced “popping up” onto my board while lying on the sand. It was definitely going to be a challenge in the water.
It seemed like I was the only person on the beach who did not know how to surf. The cold water helps discourage the crowd of eager tourists. I was shocked to learn that the winter season in Tofino brings the best waves, a phenomenon that benefits those most committed to the sport. Eager to join the ranks of wave riding individuals, I made my way into the water. I immediately forgot everything Daisy taught me as I got blasted by saltwater. I would be lying if I wasn’t cold or in pain, but the beauty of the whole experience made me forget about all those things. For three hours I practiced standing on the board. The training I did with Daisy on the sand began to come back to me and on the final wave of the day, I stood up!
Retiring back to the campsite after a long day of surfing, I couldn’t have been happier with my decision to embark on this impulsive trip. The beauty of Canada is incomparable and being able to experience it with friends far from home is beyond special. I didn’t do much planning for this adventure but it sure had plans in store for me and my friends. I think that is the best way to travel. Your trip to Tofino may look and sound a lot different than mine, but I can assure you it will come with some gorgeous views and unforgettable surprises.
And, hopefully, you’ll spot some whales for me and Daisy.
